The Much-Anticipated, Long-Awaited, Hong Kong Disneyland

It’s been open for a little more than two years. I’ve been in Hong Kong a little over two months. Finally, it is time to explore the new Disney extravaganza which is Hong Kong Disneyland.

I have always been a fan of the Disney experience, having visited the original Disneyland in Anaheim, California on numerous occasions, including on my 9th birthday when my friend Josh and I were given free reign to run around the park with only occasional parental meet-ups to which my parents arrived late. I’ve been to Disney World in Orlando, Florida three times, if I remember correctly: 1985 with my cousins and our families, 1997 with my friend Parke and our families, and again in 2002 with my family. Disney is one of those places where even big kids can let loose and enjoy the magical experience.

Arriving in Hong Kong it was surprising to discover that Hong Kong Disneyland was proving to be a disappointment to many. I first noticed a headline making note of poor attendance on a corner newsstand in August, which was confirmed with Take-Out Comedy’s owner Jami Gong joking that attendance was so low on his visit that “Mickey came over to ask if he could take a picture with me!” Hong Kong locals also complained about the park, citing its small size and the large number of mainland Chinese visiting. Disney’s main competitor in Hong Kong, Ocean Park, is preferred hands-down by people who have visited both.

With all this negative publicity Hong Kong Disney was certainly not a place that I set early plans to go and explore; instead, it remained one of those “for a random day” occasions in my plans. With Halloween coming up, however, the days to see Disney in all its ghoulish splendor were coming to a close. Despite the negative reviews, I coaxed Dan and Libby to come out for an evening at Disney on the last Friday before Halloween.

In the states, we might set aside an entire day to be spent at Disney, getting up early and getting to the park as soon as it opens. This isn’t necessary here in Hong Kong, for several reasons. First, the park has been rumored to be fairly small in size – something to be expected from a theme park’s first few years of operation. Second, for the weekends in October there is a special ticket price just for the evening hours: 6:30pm to closing admittance is only HK$199, about US$30. While we might face crowds going on a Friday evening for a special ticket rate, all accounts of the parks performance suggest otherwise.

Preparing for our trip, the three of us – Dan, Libby and I – met up about 5:30pm in the University’s atrium, and wandered up to the bus port. Plans had dictated an earlier departure, hoping to avoid the bus rush-hour times between 5 and 7 which plague daily public transit from school; however, we worked with what we had and made our way by MTR to Lantau Island in Western Hong Kong. After an hour or so of transit, we were at Sunny Bay and ready to hop the Disney MTR line to the park. As the train approached, the Disney magic began.

From the outside the Disney MTR train was the standard Disney flare, with the widows shaped as Mickey Mouse heads. Stepping into the train, the MTR experience is given a serious Disney upgrade. Standard hard plastic and metal benches are replaced by expansive curved cushioned seats, curling about the car sides for luxurious effect, rather than running parallel to maximize capacity. The train cars also feature metal statuettes of famous characters in cylindrical display boxes between the benches wave-like curves: Mickey, Pluto, Goofy, Chip and Dale, Minnie, Daisy, Daffy, all on display to build the excitement drained from the long MTR journey to Lantau. Inspecting further, the hand grips on the train also were touched by the magic: Mickey Mouse ear shaped, with mickey trousers, red with yellow buttons and all, holding the hand-grips to the bar. Despite the negative hype surrounding the park, we were thus far impressed by our Disney adventure – and we had not yet arrived at the park!

Alighting the train at the Disney station felt like an arrival, with one of the fanciest and most decorative MTR station stops I have ever seen. True to MTR form, and more likely MTR contractual obligations, 7-Eleven was present at the Disney station; however, the store was a departure from it’s typical box-like presence, appearing instead as a decorative drink cart. I’m sure the presence and style of such a location was the product of many long meetings between Disney, 7-Eleven and the MTR Corporation. Enjoy the photo-op, then head onward to the park.

To find the entrance to Disney, there is but one rule: follow the hedge-work! With the crowd streaming out of the train and down a well landscaped boulevard of people, we found our way quite easily to the ticket entrance. Passing a fountain full of lights, with Mickey Mouse surfing a top a whale’s blow-hole, and we soon came upon the park in all it’s Halloween splendor. Fortunately, the ride had not taken as long as it could have during the peak transit hours, and we made it just in time for 6:30 entrance. Dividing up our character tickets, arguing about who gets stuck with Donald rather than the Mickey or Goofy stubs, we passed bag inspection and entered the park grounds. (Looking about my desk, I still have the Donald ticket.)

Entering the park, Hong Kong was left behind: we were at Disney now. We enter facing Main Street train station, with a giant Mickey Mouse head flower arrangement on the hill ahead. Passing under the train track on either side of the building we enter Main Street USA, reminiscent if not identical to the Anaheim park. Fudge and candy stores, moving picture arcades, and memorabilia shops line both sides of the street, and the centerpiece to complete the transplanted scene: a view down main street upon Sleeping Beauty’s Castle.

We start off in standard fashion: gotta go to Tomorrowland, as it’s guaranteed for a good start off ride on Space Mountain. I’m not sure how many times I’ve been to Disneyland, but Space Mountain is always the starting point. The line for Space Mountain is only 10 minutes long, and the nearby Buzz Lightyear’s Space Shooter ride is 45 minutes. We fast pass Buzz Lightyear, and hop in line for Space Mountain – receiving our pre-flight boarding instructions on the flat screens above us in English, Cantonese and Mandarin.

The indoor roller coaster is just as I remembered. Twists and turns within the darkness create a fast and thrilling ride, despite the basic structure of the coaster and lack of any long thrilling drops. We even got a cool photo at the end!

By the time Space Mountain was done we were able to fast pass our way onto Buzz Lightyear. We would have done just that, too, were it not for the Halloween parade’s passing through Main Street at that moment. Jack the Pumpkin King and all his Nightmare Before Christmas pals lead the procession, followed by crazy bungee jumping dancers, the main street marching band, wicked witches and other evil characters riding floats. As the action petered out, we retoured from our detour and got over to the Buzz Lightyear line.

I’ve only ridden this one once or twice before, but it’s a new classic: ride around in the black light accented darkness, shooting lasers at targets as the car moves through an all encompassing light gun arcade world. On top of that, each rider earns points for everything he hits. On top of that, riders sit two to a car: competition!

Dan and I went at it, battling back and forth over control of the cars joystick to turn it to our advantage. Wait – strike that. The joystick was used defensively: we each fought to throw the other out of aim, off balance, and away from the action. After the two minutes of battling Zurg’s evil army, Dan had racked up the most points, but his joy stick hand hurt the most. Libby came in a close.

After those two rides we had conquered Tomorrowland. We didn’t ride Autopia or the rocket ships. Autopia is about as cool as the original motorboats, where one could turn the steering wheel to his heart’s content, but the boat wasn’t going to turn until the track under the water dictated it so. Imagine bumper cars on a track, that you’re not allowed to hit against one another: then you can picture Autopia. The rocket ships are the same as Dumbo, just shaped differently.

We then set about in a well paced wander. Adventureland? Fantasyland? What would be next? Plans were wonderfully open, so we decided to continue exploring until something struck our eye. Passing through Fantasyland, our eye was caught by a little tea party being in our honor! We had completely forgotten: this very day was our unbirthday!

The Mad Hatter’s teacups provide the perfect relief for wanderlust. Take a ride with us, won’t you?

Following that wickedly fun diversion, we continued onward towards Adventureland to see what might lay before us there. The only ride in Adventureland is the Jungle River Cruise, so it was there that we started.

Notorious for the campy narrative and it’s enthusiastic river boat guides, who can’t enjoy the Jungle River Cruise. The hippos are nothing to be afraid of, unless they blow bubbles and wiggle their ears: and they always blow bubbles and wiggle their ears. How well would this translate to the Hong Kong park? Would we be enjoying the banter in Chinese?

As we entered the ride, we were quickly shuffled into one of three lines. We were not positive what each of the lines was for, but guess was right on the money and our river boar captain guided us in English. Not only that, but he didn’t miss a beat on the wild banter, corny humor, or quit wit needed for those heckling passengers. As our journey began we passed Tarzan’s tree-house, our next point of exploration. Towards the end of the ride, the Disneyland fireworks light up our boat ride to the dock. Watch below for the Canto-English Jungle River Cruise adventure, in all it’s wild splendor.

Exiting the boat we dashed to seek a better vantage point for enjoying the remainder of the firework show. When the show was over, it was off to Tarzan’s tree house. This has always been a bit disappointing for me, as Tarzan’s tree house took out what was previously the Swiss Family Robinson’s tree house at the original Disneyland – and the Hong Kong version was a perfect replica of this replacement. There was but one difference: at Hong Kong Disney, Tarzan’s tree house is only accessible by a short river boat ride. In Anaheim, this riverboat ride transports passengers not to Tarzan’s tree house, but rather to Tom Sawyer’s island, filled with caves and bridges fit for running around through to one’s heart’s content. There were a few caves on the island here in Hong Kong, but they only lead to restrooms.

We were now just over one hour left until closing time, and with just one more are of the park left to conquer we followed the loop until it took us back to Fantasyland. Along the way we encountered the line for Disney’s Haunted House; however, this was not the well known Haunted Mansion. It was a temporary, Halloween only experience, with a 90 minute wait and no fast-pass option. We asked the woman tending the line to confirm the wait time.

“90 minutes,” she said. “Come, join the line!”

“But … doesn’t the park close in 45 minutes?” we asked.

“Um – Yes, that is correct,” she cheerfully replied. I’m not sure if she realized the irony of the whole “come wait in line” suggestion she made, or if Disney requires all employees to respond to any Guest inquiry in such a cheerful manner: though I’d probably put money on the latter of these two options.

“Will we get to ride, then? The park is closing before we will arrive.”

“Of course! No problem.”

Despite her cheerful assurance, we thought our time might be better spent if we continued onward to Fantasyland. Disney’s always making promises that don’t quite follow through: think of all those non-Pixar releases in they’ve put out in the past 10 years! Or even Toy Story 2!?! No, we would go for the guarantee.

In Fantasyland, we took some photos in front of Sleeping Beauty’s castle and then rode Dumbo. Dan made it a point of showing us how his Elephant would bounce up and down before the ride began. “Can yours do this!?!” he mockingly shouted, continuing the onslaught of schoolyard superiority brought on by his victory on Buzz Lightyear. However, when the ride began, his elephant couldn’t fly. “Can yours do this?” Libby and I retorted, as we soared up and down, laughing all the way. Finally his elephant did rise: at the ride’s finale, when all elephants are lifted simultaneously to their peak – an action out of the pilot’s control.

With time winding down, and Dan a bit soar from our dishing out of the abuse, we took his suggestion for Mickey’s Philharmagic 4D theater attraction. It was a fun, sensation filled romp as Donald was thrown from Disney classic to Disney classic as he sought to right the Pandora’s box of problems he started by disobeying Mickey’s instructions during the orchestral setup. Smoke flew, water sprayed, and things lept off the screen at us as Donald chased Mickey’s magic cap through Beauty and the Beast, Aladdin, the Little Mermaid, and of course Fantasia.

With our last few fleeting moments at the park, we caught a quick ride on the Carousel, lifted King Arthur’s sword from the anvil – almost, and then took a ride through the only story-book ride in Fantasy land: Winne The Pooh and the Blustery Day. Just as with on our first ride, Space Mountain, another group photo was taken of us on the Pooh ride. Fortunately for us, there were several warnings prior to the ride, and a three-two-one countdown just before the picture was taken, so that we might all be paying attention and make our final ride’s photo one to top all others for the day. Unfortunately, we couldn’t all remember such silly things when faced with such a Blustery Day!

After our story-book adventure, Fantasyland was checked off our list, with all rides having been enjoyed, and even a show taken in. Some final shopping was done as we made our way down Main Street USA, and then we started our less magical journey all the way across Hong Kong, back to HKUST.

The Verdict: If you are a Disney fan, you’ll enjoy Hong Kong Disneyland. Nestled in a small corner of Lantau Island, it is the only Disney theme park I am aware of set amidst such natural wild beauty, with the mountain range comprising the Lantau Hiking trail providing a beautiful backdrop to the park’s extravagance. While Disney might interrupt the natural beauty of the island, the natural island beauty only brings accent to the detail oriented Disney touches in the park. If you plan on making the trip be forewarned: this is not something to be scheduled for an entire day on your Hong Kong “to-do” list. In 3 hours, we were able to ride ever ride we wanted, see a show and a parade, and not feel rushed by our want for doing everything. The park plans on expanding to three times the current size over the next decade, which will make the park worthy of one’s entire day. Maybe the planners watched Zoolander one too many times amidst their scheduling meetings: “What is this!?! A theme park for ANTS!?!” For now, though, Hong Kong Disneyland should remain but a small part of your day’s overall plan. The magic’s all there – just on a smaller scale.

---

Possibly related posts: (automatically generated)

• Escape from Hong Kong
• Christmas Time in Hong Kong
• Hong Kong Comedy Festival: The Finals
• Can Hong Kong Disneyland Get the Magic Back?

5 Comments

Comments RSS TrackBack Identifier URI